Siquijor Island - witchcraft and waterfalls

Another day another gorgeous Philippine Island. I caught they ferry to Siquijor fresh from a warning from a local the night before who was telling me to be very careful as the island has lots of mystery and witchcraft.

Solangon beach Siquijor

After much reading up in my lonely planet and on the internet, I still didn't really know where to stay. Zooming in on Google maps I found a cluster of hotels and guesthouses just south of San Juan so I headed there.

Beach and the sea wasn't as picture perfect as this photo shows

My research also told me to be careful of been ripped off by the tricycle drivers who ignore the posted tourist rate of 250 Peso signs to San Juan and try to charge 500. It is not possible to do it for less than 250 I read, challenge accepted. I headed out of the port and the first thing I saw was a half full Jeepney waiting to become overloaded before setting off. Luckily he was heading my way so I got my transfer for 20 Peso, have some of that professional travel writers.

The first gaff I chose had an economy room at a less than economical price of 1,000 (£15) no air conditioning, no bathroom and no hot water. Fair play to the lady in this resort she directed me over the road to a 'food haus' that had accompanying room with A.C. and bathroom for just 600. Only problem was, it had a bathroom but didn't have water. I was given a bucket of water and a cup which was to double up as my shower and toilet flush for a few days.

The place I stayed was a family run business, all the staff were really nice and made me feel very welcome. I tried to repay there kindness and the fact it was a cheap room rate by eating most of my meals in the attached cafe. It also helped that it served delicious food at very cheap prices.

I'd showered that morning and didn't fancy the look of the stale merky looking water in the bucket for another one so I went out to see the sunset probably stinking a little bit.

Sunset over the Negros Oriental

No sooner had I walked into a sunset bar I was talking to locals, expats and travellers, then making friends with their friends. The place had a really relaxed and friendly vibe to it. It also had a sunset special happy hour drinks menu. Cuba Libra's for 55 Peso (85p) and they packed a fair old punch too. 

If Carlsberg did sunsets

The downside to chatting and enjoying yourself in a bar is it is thirsty work. When travelling alone I like a beer or two at night, but don't normally go over the top, so I bid everyone goodnight and headed home. I called in a place for supper, had a quick bite and a bottle of water, paid my bill and left to go to my room next door.

The waiter shouts to me, "Are you going to the party"

"What party"

"The annual fiesta up the hill"

I said I wasn't but it got me thinking...
I had a key for my room but not one for the entry to the house, so if I went out late, would I be able to get back in.

On walking to my room, the girl from the adjoining house asked me the same question, she offered to give me a lift. Within seconds I was throwing cups of cold water over myself to freshen up, and off I went.

The fiesta was basically an outdoor disco, it was busy enough with more people arriving all the time as local restaurants and bars were closing. I quickly got chatting with some local youngsters that got me on the rum and sprite. They were buying it by the bottle full and pouring huge measures to pass around.

Fiesta Time - poor photo but the rum had kicked in

The night went fast, very fast, the next morning I could remember dancing which is always a bad sign

I got up for breakfast and went back to bed, only getting up occasionally to get another bottle of mineral water. The day was wasted. I went out for the sunset and had a mango shake. 

The morning after the night before

A girl shouts over," I've been so hungover today", I said "me also, were you at the party last night?" "Yes we were dancing together" she replied. "Oh dear, I'm sorry" I sheepishly said. We had a good laugh which raised my spirits but I kept on fruit shakes for the evening.

I had planned only a two night stay in Siquijor but the wasted day meant I'd seen little of the island so I stayed an extra day.

I had a really nice tourist day. I visited some special old (400 years) tree which had a pool in front of it with those fishes that nibble at your dead skin on your feet in foot spas. I had a bit of that for free, it caused a strange tickling sensation, but made sure my feet were well and truly out the water when the larger fish came over.

Old balete tree with foot spa in front

San Isidro Labrador Church in Lazi

Next I went to Cambugahay waterfalls which were stunning. It was a three tiered waterfall, each one progressively better than the one before. I so much wanted to get in for a swim and a cool off, but the lonely planet warned that many tourists have had possessions stolen whilst in the water.

Cambugahay Falls

Inviting pools

I noticed a small island in the middle of the top pool, waded out to that and left my bag on there so I could keep an eye on it. The water was crystal clear and nice and warm. By now my water had run out at the hotel so this was my best and only way of getting clean in days. I could and should have stayed there all day, but I had a driver waiting for me at the top of the 200+ steps.

The top pool and my shower for the day

Walking back down the waterfalls I witnessed an unbelievable site, a bride in full white traditional wedding gown on a rope swing posing for photos swinging over the bottom pool, the groom then jumped on also and the inevitable happened, the pair of them went in the water. I'm not sure but I guess this guy might hear about this from his new wife for most of his married life.

Sadly I never caught on camera the bride on the swing, but this gives you an idea

I then asked to be dropped by Paliton Beach about 3 km away from my hotel. It was a gorgeous beach but the sea has lots of grass in it. Passing around a couple of coves I found a nice spot with nice shallow water which I lazed in for hours.

Paliton Beach

I went back to the sunset bar again, this time taking it steady, but having a great night with the same people I'd met on the first day.

One last sunset to enjoy

My time on the island really made me appreciate one commodity which I'd previously taken for granted, water. Due to the severe drought the island has little water, I'm not sure how the more expensive resorts were managing. I was amazed at how free flowing the waterfalls were in such drought. Must be fed from underground. 

With each day I travel the more and more I realise how little in life you really need. That said, if there is an art to a bucket flush toilet, sadly I haven't really mastered it.

There is definitely a draw to Siquijor, many people I spoke to either never leave or return each year. Other than the waterfalls it wasn't that special a place, but it was a place I really enjoyed, I can't quite put my finger on what it was. Perhaps that is part of the mystique of the island.

The church in Siquijor town as I waited to catch the ferry of the island