Last few days in the Philippines

With my last 6 nights in the Philippines I was looking forward to visiting Bohol and Cebu. Bohol has a number of attractions all possible to be done by public transport. With that in mind I stayed in Tagbilaran the Island capital and use it as my transport hub.

Philippine flag flying proudly over the beautiful Virgin Island

I stumbled on a gem of a find for accommodation, Nisa Travellers Inn had single rooms for just 500 Peso (about £8), had hot water showers (separate) and included breakfast. It had a large common room where it was easy to meet and chat with other travellers which were a nice mix of holiday making Filipinos and foreign travellers.

The ferry I caught went via Dumaguete (which was an earlier destination of mine) and it took quite a long time to get to Bohol.

Before dark I looked to find anything that resembled any kind of nightlife. I had on a place in mind, but couldn't find it despite having walked past it 3 or 4 times. Even when I did locate it, it looked rough and edgy from the outside. It was with great trepidation that I went inside and up the dark back stairs to the bar. Inside however it was really nice. The people were friendly and the live band was good.

Best bar in Bohol - singers weren't bad either

I fancied a tourism day and I wanted to do it all on public transport. Catching a cheap tricycle ride to the bus station I hopped on the local bus to Carmon, 2 hours for 80p. I love the local buses in the Philippines the non ac kind are even cheaper and with all the windows fully down it lets fresh cool air rush through the bus. One problem with the buses is compared to the buses in England the seats that are meant for 2, fit 3 locals. Sometimes I had an unpleasant ride, If possible I tried to tactically choose seats where I was going to get a bit more room. Locals are very friendly on the buses and usually you spend the whole journey having a good laugh with them.

Chocolate Hills

Getting off at the Chocolate Hills complex look-out point, I got to see hundreds of cone shaped hills which were brownish due to the dry climate. From the top it was impressive, sadly my photo's haven't done it the justice it deserved.

More Chocolate Hills

Jumping (quite literally) onto a bus pulling away I was bound for my next stop the Tarsier Sanctuary. Tarsiers are native to Bohol and are said to be the inspiration behind the film ET. 

A Tarsier hides from the camera and the sun

Again my photo's aren't great, but these little fellas are tiny and nocturnal. You could get reasonably close to them, but they were hidden under the shade of trees.

Best I could mange on my smartphone

Next stop was Loboc. This bus ride was particularly interesting as it was spent with a local mother trying to fix me up with her 24 year old daughter, very nice she was too.

Loboc river cruise

Loboc wasn't really on my radar for the day, but when the bus went through earlier I saw a wide turquoise river passed through it. Speaking with others travellers that day they said it was a nice place to walk and you could take a tourist cruise on the river.

Kids hanging on to the side of our boat

Time was getting on a bit, so I opted for the cruise. It was touristy, but I liked it. It slowly went through beautiful scenery. Local kids were diving in the water and got pulled along by the ropes attached to the boat. Some kids would traverse up coconut trees hanging over the river and jump in to entertain the passengers.

Kid jumping into the river

We stopped off at a local dance group who put on a short performance of traditional dancing. 

Dancing girls

Catching the bus back to Tagbilaran and then a Jeepney to close to my hotel, I'd had an excellent day out, very cheap and enjoyable. I love self organised day trips.

Jeepney selfie

I stayed an extra night in Tagbilaran, not because I had lined up anything extra to see, but I liked the hotel which was cheap with lovely receptionists, I'd made lots of mates during my time in the common room, and really I couldn't decide where to go next.

My extra day was Sunday, I spent it wandering shopping malls, testing out the theory on how easy it is to get chatting to women in malls. It was, I didn't need any shopping, but it was quite a relaxing and enjoyable day. The evening was very quiet. I spent it recharging the batteries of my laptop and phone and more importantly my own battery which had been running on low power for a few days.

Bohol, Philippines

My last 3 days were to be in Cebu (22nd biggest city in Philippines) or head south to a connecting (by road bridge) island Panglao for 2 days by the sea and 1 night in Cebu. All the people I spoke with said it was a no-brainer, so I headed to the beach.

Again I wanted to do it local style and by Jeepney. 2 Vietnamese girls came with me from the hotel. This ride was a classic experience. I counted 37 passengers crammed in the Jeepney, plus there would be others buried under the mass of people. There were also a few on the roof along with my bag, which I was worried about as I'd left my wallet and passport easily accessible. I needn't have worried as it remained untouched.

Not much room in this Jeepney ride

I didn't have anywhere to sleep, the Vietnamese girl I liked the best (and had got on very well with) said I should try the same hotel as them, which I did. She asked for me whilst checking in, and came out and told me they only had the super deluxe room so I went elsewhere. Alona was a small place we were both there for 2 nights so I was bound to meet up again later. I never, which was a great shame.

Alona Beach

Finding some cheaper accommodation and saving about £10 I used this to book 2 tours. I hadn't been on an organised tourist trip all the time I'd been travelling since the end of Feb, in fact I think it is something where Philippines lacks a little for the solo traveller. However most things are easily done cheap on public transport.

The first tour I took in was a firefly trip along the river. I'd read up on how best to photograph fireflies but didn't understand any of it, I think the website I was reading was for the serious photographers with SLR cameras not just a smartphone. The trip was good, I was joined by 3 Danish girls, a German girl and a Chinese family.

The fireflies were impressive, looking like Christmas lights in the trees. My photo's were dire, just a black screen, no matter which mode I tried to take them. The guide was very informative about the fireflies and the tribes that live in the area.

Fireflies at night!

This trip finished at close to 10pm and my other trip was a 6 am start, so when the German girl asked if I want to join her for a drink I did the sensible thing and said yes of course. Seriously though I was sensible to call it a night after a couple.

The next trip was a dolphin watching and island hopping trip. The dolphins did play along after a while and we got to see quite a few. The rest of the trip was ok, the highlight been when we visited Virgin island, a small beautiful island with a religious theme.

Dolphin watching

Virgin Island

That evening was one of my favourite nights in the Philippines. I ate for ridiculously cheap by the beach with a load of locals, had drinks in a small bar again chatting to mainly locals and finished with a nightcap across the road from my hotel, again meeting some lovely people.

The next day was mainly a travelling day, doing it like the locals by catching a Jeepney then the ferry to Cebu.  One bad taste on the ferry was I think I was ripped off at the baggage check in. I was certain I was overcharged but I had little time to query it. It was just £1.50 after all.

On the ferry I met a girl from London who told me of somewhere cheap and good to stay in Cebu. It was a great recommendation however the area around wasn't the best so I had an early night.

My last day in the Philippines I took the opportunity for another cheap haircut 80p and went to look at the sights. My half day tour of Cebu was probably suffucient.

It was the 450th anniversary of something religious and a street carnival was celebrating this fact. A nice way to end my stay.

Fiesta selfie

Cebu Carnival

I loved ever minute of my stay in Philippines, the highlight was definitely the people and in particular the smiles. The greetings you got from locals instantly transformed your day. I was ready to move into a new country, Taiwan, but it wasn't long after leaving Philippines I missed it enormously.

Philippines I will be back.

Siquijor Island - witchcraft and waterfalls

Another day another gorgeous Philippine Island. I caught they ferry to Siquijor fresh from a warning from a local the night before who was telling me to be very careful as the island has lots of mystery and witchcraft.

Solangon beach Siquijor

After much reading up in my lonely planet and on the internet, I still didn't really know where to stay. Zooming in on Google maps I found a cluster of hotels and guesthouses just south of San Juan so I headed there.

Beach and the sea wasn't as picture perfect as this photo shows

My research also told me to be careful of been ripped off by the tricycle drivers who ignore the posted tourist rate of 250 Peso signs to San Juan and try to charge 500. It is not possible to do it for less than 250 I read, challenge accepted. I headed out of the port and the first thing I saw was a half full Jeepney waiting to become overloaded before setting off. Luckily he was heading my way so I got my transfer for 20 Peso, have some of that professional travel writers.

The first gaff I chose had an economy room at a less than economical price of 1,000 (£15) no air conditioning, no bathroom and no hot water. Fair play to the lady in this resort she directed me over the road to a 'food haus' that had accompanying room with A.C. and bathroom for just 600. Only problem was, it had a bathroom but didn't have water. I was given a bucket of water and a cup which was to double up as my shower and toilet flush for a few days.

The place I stayed was a family run business, all the staff were really nice and made me feel very welcome. I tried to repay there kindness and the fact it was a cheap room rate by eating most of my meals in the attached cafe. It also helped that it served delicious food at very cheap prices.

I'd showered that morning and didn't fancy the look of the stale merky looking water in the bucket for another one so I went out to see the sunset probably stinking a little bit.

Sunset over the Negros Oriental

No sooner had I walked into a sunset bar I was talking to locals, expats and travellers, then making friends with their friends. The place had a really relaxed and friendly vibe to it. It also had a sunset special happy hour drinks menu. Cuba Libra's for 55 Peso (85p) and they packed a fair old punch too. 

If Carlsberg did sunsets

The downside to chatting and enjoying yourself in a bar is it is thirsty work. When travelling alone I like a beer or two at night, but don't normally go over the top, so I bid everyone goodnight and headed home. I called in a place for supper, had a quick bite and a bottle of water, paid my bill and left to go to my room next door.

The waiter shouts to me, "Are you going to the party"

"What party"

"The annual fiesta up the hill"

I said I wasn't but it got me thinking...
I had a key for my room but not one for the entry to the house, so if I went out late, would I be able to get back in.

On walking to my room, the girl from the adjoining house asked me the same question, she offered to give me a lift. Within seconds I was throwing cups of cold water over myself to freshen up, and off I went.

The fiesta was basically an outdoor disco, it was busy enough with more people arriving all the time as local restaurants and bars were closing. I quickly got chatting with some local youngsters that got me on the rum and sprite. They were buying it by the bottle full and pouring huge measures to pass around.

Fiesta Time - poor photo but the rum had kicked in

The night went fast, very fast, the next morning I could remember dancing which is always a bad sign

I got up for breakfast and went back to bed, only getting up occasionally to get another bottle of mineral water. The day was wasted. I went out for the sunset and had a mango shake. 

The morning after the night before

A girl shouts over," I've been so hungover today", I said "me also, were you at the party last night?" "Yes we were dancing together" she replied. "Oh dear, I'm sorry" I sheepishly said. We had a good laugh which raised my spirits but I kept on fruit shakes for the evening.

I had planned only a two night stay in Siquijor but the wasted day meant I'd seen little of the island so I stayed an extra day.

I had a really nice tourist day. I visited some special old (400 years) tree which had a pool in front of it with those fishes that nibble at your dead skin on your feet in foot spas. I had a bit of that for free, it caused a strange tickling sensation, but made sure my feet were well and truly out the water when the larger fish came over.

Old balete tree with foot spa in front

San Isidro Labrador Church in Lazi

Next I went to Cambugahay waterfalls which were stunning. It was a three tiered waterfall, each one progressively better than the one before. I so much wanted to get in for a swim and a cool off, but the lonely planet warned that many tourists have had possessions stolen whilst in the water.

Cambugahay Falls

Inviting pools

I noticed a small island in the middle of the top pool, waded out to that and left my bag on there so I could keep an eye on it. The water was crystal clear and nice and warm. By now my water had run out at the hotel so this was my best and only way of getting clean in days. I could and should have stayed there all day, but I had a driver waiting for me at the top of the 200+ steps.

The top pool and my shower for the day

Walking back down the waterfalls I witnessed an unbelievable site, a bride in full white traditional wedding gown on a rope swing posing for photos swinging over the bottom pool, the groom then jumped on also and the inevitable happened, the pair of them went in the water. I'm not sure but I guess this guy might hear about this from his new wife for most of his married life.

Sadly I never caught on camera the bride on the swing, but this gives you an idea

I then asked to be dropped by Paliton Beach about 3 km away from my hotel. It was a gorgeous beach but the sea has lots of grass in it. Passing around a couple of coves I found a nice spot with nice shallow water which I lazed in for hours.

Paliton Beach

I went back to the sunset bar again, this time taking it steady, but having a great night with the same people I'd met on the first day.

One last sunset to enjoy

My time on the island really made me appreciate one commodity which I'd previously taken for granted, water. Due to the severe drought the island has little water, I'm not sure how the more expensive resorts were managing. I was amazed at how free flowing the waterfalls were in such drought. Must be fed from underground. 

With each day I travel the more and more I realise how little in life you really need. That said, if there is an art to a bucket flush toilet, sadly I haven't really mastered it.

There is definitely a draw to Siquijor, many people I spoke to either never leave or return each year. Other than the waterfalls it wasn't that special a place, but it was a place I really enjoyed, I can't quite put my finger on what it was. Perhaps that is part of the mystique of the island.

The church in Siquijor town as I waited to catch the ferry of the island

A hidden Gem - Sugar Beach

Sugar beach

Following a late start due to the lure of the thermal baths at Mambukal, I set about my optimistic and epic journey to Sugar Beach. In truth I was always chasing my planned itinerary. But after the 2 buses and Jeepney ride, I saw a wonderful sunset as my journey was reaching conclusion. Trouble was it then took a massive detour and by the time I was due to alight the bus it was already pitch black dark and didn't fancy the 3km ride from a random village by tricycle followed by a paddle boat across the river and then look for accommodation.

Instead I opted to stay on the bus to Sipalay the next big resort and look for accommodation in the town and resume my travel plans the next day.

Sipalay beach

A quick check on booking.com, agoda and Airbnb, showed me a reasonably priced gaff near the bus station. A quick check in and off I went looking for food.

It was 7:50pm, and I asked in the hotel restaurant what time they were serving food until.

"I will just check with the chef sir"

2 mins later "8:30'sir"

So I ordered my meal and waited.

The waitress came back a few mins later and said "sorry we have none left of your choice, so I ordered something the waitress said was available, 10 mins later she came back and said "sorry sir, kitchen closed"

Sipalay beach had many local tourists, and I managed to get food elsewhere at a ridiculously cheap price, tasty too. It was a place the Lonely Planet says you have no reason to visit other than to catch a bus, but I thought it was a nice setting and I think the criticism was overly harsh.

Sipalay, not a bad place considering its write up in the Lonely Planet

I then went to the busiest bar on the beach front and got well in with some local lads who had been drinking a while it seemed. One guy was insistent that he bought me a drink, which out of politeness I refused. However it quickly turned 360° and ended up him wanting me to buy him and his mates beers, at which point I paid my small bill, made excuses and had an early night.

The next morning I took full advantage of having the pool to myself, had a swim and relax before continuing my journey to Sugar Beach. Each travel leg I managed to shave a considerable amount from the Lonely Planet guidelines by negotiating the price down.

Nice morning in the pool

I was glad I hadn't embarked on this remaining portion of my journey the night before, when I saw the complexity in getting to the beach. Down a very poor dirt track for about 3 km and across a river in a paddle boat. Both 'drivers' tried and failed to rip me off, but at night I would have had considerably less bargaining power.

Journey across the river

Just around the corner is Sugar Beach

I found accommodation easily enough at my preferred destination. A lovely resort that had some cheap (very cheap) Pica huts made from bamboo and coconut tree leaves. The hut was about the size of a standard garden shed, with a mattress on the floor and a mosquito net to prevent the inevitable bites due to the large gaps in the hut walls and roof.

My Pica hut 

This net did a fine job of keeping the bugs out

Sugar beach was quiet, very quiet, at times I had the place to myself. With beautiful sand fringed by coconut trees and warm sea, it was lovely. The 2nd day (Saturday) it did fill up with day and weekend trippers from the Philippines. The were all friendly and invited me to the feast they were having and I joined in with a game of volleyball.

Lazing in the hammock

I caught a little too much sun messing around in the sea having a swim. A cool breeze hit the bay making it feel cooler than it obviously was.

Nice spot this Sugar Beach

The owner of my hotel (Canadian) rocked up the next day and I spent a long time chatting with him. After the staff saw me with the owner and seemingly knowing him, the staff who were already excellent, treated me like a king for the rest of the stay.

Nice little bar on the rocks

I got taken to a cave, which otherwise I would not known existed, then shown around the nearby locals village. Drinks in the bar were good value especially when the owner was buying them. He was a bit of a confident 'businessman' and entertained me and the girls that worked at the resort with a series of magic tricks and presumably exaggerated stories.

Hidden attraction the cave at Sugar Beach

The staff in the place were really good fun, polite and confident enough to tease me over my apparent fear of the huge lizards (Gecko's) that were about. Normally I don't mind these as they eat the bugs and mosquitoes in your room. These fellas however must have eaten some mosquitoes in their time. They were about a foot long and 2 inches wide. Quick on their feet also, which made me a little jumpy, much to the humor of the staff.

HUGE Gecko's

I was asked by the owner to join him and some other guests on an all expense paid, island hopping and snorkeling trip be next day. I was too polite and too English in a way, which lead to me leaving the resort before they came back. I was annoyed with myself, throughout my travels I wanted to force myself to accept the many opportunities to come my way. In my defense I did have another monster day of travelling lined up so wanted to get away at a reasonable time. It would probably have meant staying another day with more drinks and magic on the night

So in the last couple of weeks I've been to two very beautiful and contrasting beach resorts, one massively developed (Boracay) this one much quieter. So which beach did I prefer?

Sand and sea quality Boracay just edges it, but Sugar beach was near perfect. Nightlife I preferred Sugar beach with its quiet nightlife where you get to meet and know everyone. Sugar beach is not a party destination and should remain that way in my opinion. The remoteness of Sugar Beach keeps the place special. Great for scuba diving apparently if that is your thing. Importantly to me both have magnificent sunsets to enjoy.

Philippines do sunsets exceptionally well

Another ambitious travelling day was to follow. Just as well I skipped the free boat trip as it took ages to get to Dumaguete. Back to town I took the hard route walking then a paddle boat over the river and a tricycle ride up the dusty and very bumpy beach track and into town. An alternative option was to get charter a boat to take me direct. This was 300 Peso, in both directions I got it for 120. So that was a total saving of 460 Peso (>£7) which paid for a nights accommodation.

Got to say I've loved other places more

With it been Sunday, buses weren't that frequent, but once the first one came they almost lined up as connections. I had to get three buses in total, 1.5 hours, 2.5 hours  and 2 hours. I took the unwise, even foolish over confident step at the start of the journey by buying a coconut pie from a street seller, 2 in fact as he didn't have change. The pie just looked like a standard meat pie you get in England but the filling was hot fresh coconut, the slimey stuff you get in fresh green coconuts before they have dried out. They were delicious and my stomach never suffered from the experience.

I stayed somewhere a bit nicer in Dumaguete, it was nice to get good night sleep and feel properly clean when you come out of the shower. It was well worth the £12 room charge.

All that travelling tired me out. Continuing the upscaling theme I had dinner in a highly recommended restaurant with homemade ginger lemonade which was delicious.

Fine Dining

A good sleep after an early night and I was feeling revitalised. I took in the sights of Dumagete which took about 2 hours (dragging it out), went back and did a bit of studying on the internet, which set me up nicely for another nap. 

Dumaguete Cathedral

Dumaguete Bell Tower

This hotel was really great to meet other travellers, I got onto long conversations on numerous occasions with people from round the world, sharing travel tips and stories.

Squid for just a few quid for lunch

Would I recommend Dumagete to other travels, yes but only as a stop over to break the journey. On the night walking along the seafront there is plenty going on with makeshift stalls and street food. A nice vibe of people going for an evening stroll.

Nice statue by the promenade

Next blog covers my time on Siquijor Island, famed for witchcraft and me partying hard at the annual fiesta.