My last blog ended as I was just about to board a 14 hour 'VIP ' bus overnight from Luang Prabang to the Laos-Thai border. It was due to arrive at 8am but getting to the bus station the luxury bus I had booked was actually a minivan.
The minivan hurtled over the road that in places was little better than a badly maintained farm track. Every time I anywhere near got to sleep we hit a very bumpy stretch that ensured that no sleep was to be had.
During the journey the driver and the co-driver took a shine to a local young Laos woman so much so they were taking photo's of her sleeping as the journey went along. One of them was particularly snide and creepy and after finishing his driving shift made an Italian guy sit in the front so he could snuggle up to her.
The van went a lot faster than the bus, so much so we got to the destination Huay Xai bus station at 04:20. It was way too early to even consider getting accommodation. The tuk-tuk drivers that met the bus were painful to negotiate with. One in particular was frustrating at best and he caught me in a 'grumpy moment' following a lack of sleep.
I decided enough was enough and I was going to make my way into Thailand to Chiang Rai. The border didn't open until around 7:30 but I managed to flag down a bus and was in Chiang Rai by lunchtime.
Having been a day ahead of my rough schedule I had done no research, and my lonely planet book had limited information on the city. I saw a sign for a couple of guesthouses hopped off the bus and was sorted.
Chiang Rai was great. In a zombie like state I wondered the city took a nap and headed to the night market for my evening meal. A vast choice of stalls selling Thai food at cheap prices with a stage with traditional dance performances made for a nice inexpensive evening. It was early to bed as I had so much sleep to catch up on.
 |
| Chiang Rai Food Market |
 |
| Traditional dancing on stage |
We took in the White Temple which was a nice change as every other temple was beginning to look the same. It had a modern art theme and was great, it was a shame the sun wasn't shining as it glistens in the sun.
 |
| White Temple |
The rest of the morning we visited a Black House/village which was OK, a tea plantation which had great scenery and a monkey cave, which is where our vehicle broke down.
 |
| Tea Plantation |
A few phone calls later and we were paired with a mother and daughter group from China who I'd briefly met the day before as they were in my guesthouse.
The daughter was great fun, and could speak good English and was hoping to finish her university studies in the UK. The afternoon flew by with visits to Maisai on on the Myanmar border, an opium museum, the golden triangle (a point were Laos, Myanmar and Thai meet separated by the Mekong river) and an average temple. A great day with nice people.
 |
| Golden Triangle (Laos top right, Myanmar left, Thailand bottom) |
I headed back to the night market for dinner, instantly bumped into the Chinese girls that persuaded me to get a hot pot meal where you had to cook your dinner on a clay pot at your table. Thankfully the girls helped me out and the food was delicious.
 |
| Master chef |
A couple of beers with the younger Chinese girl back at the hotel and I was done in.
Struggling to make an early start the next morning I headed for Chiang Mai. I found some ridiculously cheap digs £4.50 and went for an explore. Chiang Mai had a 'big city feel' about something I'd not experienced sine Ho Chi Minh City several weeks back. I'm not sure if it was because I was tired or the district that my hotel was located I didn't really like it.
Deciding to move on and return to Chiang Mai later in the trip to give it a fair trial I headed up in the mountains to Pai. A much smaller place but overrun with tourists. I found a great bungalow/wooden hut to stay in with a hammock on the balcony which was very relaxing as I watched the river flow.
I took in a sunset tour to Pai Canyon. A ridge ran along with a huge drop either side. I walked along it noticing it was only about a foot wide with a shear drop, once I got over this section I turned back and saw exactly where I'd walked which is when my legs turned to jelly. The only way back was to retrace my steps but this time was seriously shaking and was so glad when I made my final baby step onto safe ground.
 |
| Pai Canyon |
 |
| Sunset over Pai Canyon |
On the way back into town we noticed a girl by the side of the road who had come off her motorbike. She had cut her head open and was covered in blood. I went with her to the hospital, which I was impressed how quickly she was treated. Anyone reading this considering renting a scooter around this part of the world please wear a helmet, the sight of this young girl covered in blood was not pleasant.
Earlier that day I put nearly all my clothes into a very cheap laundrette. Whilst on a decent session of beers walking back late at night was horrified to see my clothes were hung up on the roadside outside the laundrette with the place shut up for the night. Luckily when I went to collect them the next day they were all still there, perhaps that says more for my fashion sense rather than the trustworthiness of the other tourists in Pai!
The next day i took in a day trip with a great group of people, a young English couple, two German lads, a french girl and Dutch girl and 'a couple' of Spanish lasses. We took in a waterfall, I took a dip into some hot springs and also had a great lookout place 1450m up over the mountains.
The highlight of the trip was a trip to Lod cave. It was massive with many natural structures that the guide imaginatly suggested looked like animals. We took a trip through the cave on a bamboo boat which was skimming the water and with each rowing stroke everyone ended up with wet backsides.
 |
| Lod Cave |
 |
| I think this was an 'elephant' inside the cave |
From Pai buses only go to two places Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son, the latter been a recommendation from the lady from Oxfordshire, so MHS it was.
I found 'OK' accommodation for £2.80 a night for a double en-suite room although it didn't have hot water. MHS is small but nice and I saw the sights that afternoon. The evening I bumped into a Japanese girl that was on my bus earlier. We had a few beers listening to possibly the worst band I'd ever heard. It was worse than karaoke as it appeared the guitarist and bass were also beginners. They murdered a few tourist classics.
 |
| Mae Hong Son lake |
 |
| Artistic view of a statue |
The Japanese girl was telling me about a week long meditation retreat she was going on in a few days. Sounded really interesting and something I'd consider. We swapped details so I'll find out how it was before deciding if it is for me. I might find the no speaking, reading or writing a challenge though.
My final day in MHS I took a full day trip with a guy from Holland whom I'd met at Pai Canyon. Another great day taking in a waterfall, Chinese village, fish cave (not worth the £1.90 fee) a mud spa, bamboo bridge and a bamboo trek. Some of the spiders I saw that day were huge, actually they were bigger than that I'd say they were absolutely massive!
 |
| Lake at the Chinese village |
 |
| Giant spider |
 |
| Waterfall |
 |
| Bamboo bridge over rice fields |
 |
| Mud spa selfie |
My journey to Chaing Mai was eventful due to all the locals (I was the only non Thai) throwing up as we snaked around the 1,864 curves and hairpin bends in the mountains back to the city. A couple of the day trips I'd done had options to visit a local tribe where the women wear brass bands around their necks which stretches them. I didn't fancy it as it had an element of human zoo about it. One of the passengers on the bus was a 'long neck' so I got that 'attraction' for free (obviously without the photos).
So now as I've just arrived back in Chiang Mai I only have little over a week left of my trip. I've upscaled my guesthouse and have a pool (just over £10 a night B&B). Still no or little sight of Christmas but I'm looking forward to my Christmas dinner at home, it will be my first Western food in 11 weeks.
Nice read. Enjoy life.
ReplyDelete