Chilling out in Laos

After the minibus from Cambodia dropped us off we made our way to catch a rickety boat to the 4000 islands. I was staying on Don Det which is known as a chillout and party island.  I had accomodation booked, quickly checked in dropped my bag and headed for sunset side of the island to watch the sun go down whilst having my first ever beer lao.

Sunset on 4,000 Islands

First (of many) Beer Lao

The bar restaurant was a shack overhanging the Mekong River furnished with bed like booths, cushions and seats. I got talking to the owner, she was incredibly hungover from the night before.  It turned out by chance this place was the same place that I had been recommended for excellent Laos food.

After another glorious sunset where the clouds around the mountains lit up in pinks and oranges, i was well overdue a shower after a full day on the bus.  I went back to the shack for dinner asking the owner what was her best dish, didn't catch what said, but yes please. It was fab if not a little too spicy but was good to wash it down with more beer.



 Chicken Ka Pao (I think) - very spicy but great



Later a young couple who had travelled with me from Siem Reap joined me and a Belgium girl for a few beers. The couple were from Paris and the other girl Brussels.  We discussed at great length the current situation with both places following the recent attacks. As we discussed the owner got on one of the beds and slept her hangover away. We helped ourselves to beers from the fridge and woke her up to pay when we left, it is that sort of place.

The next day I hired a bike which must have been older than me and I cycled around Don Det and the neighboring island connected by a bridge.  I visited some great waterfalls, and then to a man-made beach in the middle of the river. Other tourists were swimming and frolicking in the river lagoon, I could only paddle as I hadn't brought any swimming shorts.  It was too far to go back and get them. Others were swimming in their shorts but i was worried about leaving my phone, money and credit card by the side.  Cycling was tricky and tiring, the bike not helping. During my ride a snake crossed my my path, he already had a small mouse in his mouth which I was thankful of.



Waterfalls in Mekong River



Beach for a cool dip in the Mekong river



That evening I enjoyed another great sunset and met a local guy and had a few cocktails.  It was a great night.  Don Det is a young travellers destination, very chilled with beautiful scenery.

The next day I caught a boat and bus to Pakse. It wasn't clear which boat to catch, and even less clear which connecting bus to catch.  I had no onward accomodation booked so I wasn't fussed of the destination, but hoped it was north.



Boat landing beach



I'd planned a big Friday night out in Pakse, but after a very spicy dinner (Chicken Lahp) and a long walk, abandoned it for a couple of reasons. I was feeling a little sick after dinner and also I didn't fancy the late night dark walk home, tuk tuks in Pakse are scarce particularly in the evening.

The next day I caught the night bus to Vientiane the Laos capitol.  I was a little worried as I'd been told that the VIP sleeper bus was a series of single beds (about 5ft x 3ft) to share with another passenger. Booking my seat earlier I choose one that had a empty seat (bed) next to me.

When i went to the bus station to catch the bus I discovered I was to have a partner sharing my bed. A bit of a lottery, but after a little sweat talking the office girl (who couldn't speak English), she changed my seat to a vacant double right at the front of the bus above the driver. As it turned out my original seat (bed) 38 was sharing with a lovely french girl I met earlier in the day.  She will never know it but I guess she was more pleased than I, that I managed to change my reservation.



My bed on the sleeper bus for the evening



I might have had plenty of room but I had a prime view of oncoming overtaking lorries flashing and honking their horns at us and first hand witness of crazy manoeuvres.  On top of that, the road was very bumpy, and with every pothole we hit I was thrust 6 inches into the air and landed with a thump back on the bed.  Needless to say my sleep was restless at best.

So I arrived in Vientiane with no accommodation at 06:30 on a Sunday morning.  Everywhere was shut for breakfast so I wandered the streets looking for decent digs in my price range. 20 mins later I found a cracking hotel for £8 a night and best of all the room was immediately available. A quick nap and I hit the streets of Vientiane.

This is a small place and I'd done most of the temples on day one and headed up to a Arc De Triumph like structure (Patuxai) with you could climb to the top for 25p. A few beers watching the sun set over the mekong, a quick bite to eat and I was done.  The sunset was made all thee more pleasant as I was joined by a couple of Lao girls who surprisingly were also on the beer.  I expected boyfriends to turn up and join them but it never happened.  I had great food and an early night.



Vientiane version of the Arc De Triumph





This guy handily pointing me to the nearest pub

Over dinner I met a guy from Switzerland and agreed to meet him for sightseeing the next day.  We caught a local bus to Buddha park for 12,000 kip (£1) return saving from the 70,0000 organised tour. Back in town we did the COPE museum which helps locals who still suffer from the USA bombing 40 years ago. Unexploded bombs still cause around 100 casulaties a year. 



This was the way in

Buddha Park Mega mix

I headed back to the Mekong river for another great sunset, tonight's bar had loads of groups of young Lao women drinking together and enjoying themselves.  I stayed for a few beers listening to the live band.  

Cracking sunset over the Mekong

The next morning i made a late decision to travel north to Vang Viang.  At the agency I booked the 10am bus at 08:50.  The lady said I would be picked up in a tuk tuk at 09:00.  I rushed back to my hotel, quick toilet stop, but was horrified that the flush didn't work in the shared bathroom.  Managing to sort it using the shower attachment on the side of the toilet, quickly packed my bag and back to the travel agency.  

The tuk tuk dropped me about 20 meters from my hotel door and I boarded the bus and waited for over an hour and a half for it to fill up before departing. I could have so much time for a shower and relax had I known. As I write this aboard the 4 hour bus in 35°C heat still in the clothes I wore last night, I must admit I feel a little sorry for the German geezer sat next to me.

Vang Viang was to be the latest venue of another not entirely successful water based activity, this time in a Kayak.