Monday 7 December 2015

Laos part 2














My next stop in Laos was at Vang Vieng.  VV is a small town surrounded by limestone mountains with the Mekong river running through it.  It is a beautiful and picturesque town. With the many activities for tourists and surrounded by mountains it reminded me of South East Asia's version of Queenstown, New Zealand.
Balloonists enjoy Vang Vieng from the air
I arrived to the news that the death of another tourist the previous week had caused all bars to be closed along the famous tubing route.  The mix of excessive drink (and often drugs) with an inflatable tire and the fast current of the Mekong river is always going to be dangerous. I was undecided if I was to do this activity, and was never going to drink to excess, I'm bad enough in water without any alcohol.
Making my way around the town I bumped into the girl from Hong Kong whom I'd had dinner with a couple of weeks back.  It is amazing how many people you continue to bump into on well trodden paths.  We had a great catch up over dinner and said over farewell, she was heading south and I was heading north.
With the full-on tubing experience no longer an option I pushed myself to try something new and took on a full tour trip with had caving, some tubing and new to me Kayaking.  Following my unsuccessful time snorkelling it was time for me to push my own boundaries in the water again.


The tubing was dragging yourself along a rope in a cave full of water.  It was great fun, quite easy and relaxing.  I was with a great group of 3 Danish girls, 2 Swedish fellas and a couple of Korean girls. The lads were a great laugh and more my age so we got on great.  The Korean girls didn't mix with us too well, although I think it was a language problem, the Danes were great fun.
After lunch the Kayaking began, I was the only novice, one of the Danish girls (Marie) choose to be my partner, something she probably now regrets.  We started well for the first few metres, before heading towards an overhanging tree.  Been at the back I was in charge of steering, but got confused as we headed for a tree I turned the wrong way and when Marie swayed away from the foliage we capsized.  Luckily we were quickly recued as we sped along the Mekong holding onto the boat.  Thanks to an excellent tour guide and us wearing life jackets the only downside from this was one lost flip flop (hers - not mine).  At least I got to test that the dry bags worked. 

The start of the kayak adventure - I think it was the tree in the centre of the shot we crashed into
I learned quickly and really enjoyed the 8km kayaking.  It was tough and I had to concentrate to avoid all the rocks, bridges, tubers and trees but we survived in one piece. I bought the girls a drink to apologise but Marie insists it was her fault which I went along with.
After today's exercise I had well and truly had earned a beer or two. I went to the lively bar in town tried a new beer (Namkhong), had three free whiskey and lemonade drinks, bumped into the Korean girls who again weren't up for much banter, had a night cap and slept like a log.

A nice change from Beer Lao

I was pleased I had pushed myself to try something new.  Once over I would have avoided kayaking for fear of the unknown, but hey I faced my fear, within 2 minutes we'd capsized and survived and then I could enjoy it. One thing this trip has taught me is to push my boundaries (within reason) and even if the worst does happen it might not be as bad as anticipated.  This is what is great about travelling it can remove anxiety from your life.
A great trip from Vang Vieng over the mountains to Luang Prabang and I managed to bag the front seat of the mini-van yet again.  Everyone else was complaining about the drivers speed and he hit too many potholes, but I could see how bad the road was and I thought he was an excellent driver.  The mini-van was 2 hours quicker than the bus, so they must have realised he would be quite fast.  Some people just like to moan.

Nice drive to Luang Prabang

Another sunset view this time from the mountain in Luang Probang a wonder down the night market and an early night as the rain started to fall.

Feeling on top of the world in Luang Prabang

Food at the night market

And drinks - I had number 12 with plenty of Laos whiskey
Having gone through wet season in South East Asia, it is ironic that the next day was wiped out by steady rain. I sorted out a couple of trips for following days, had a coffee, with the rain still falling the only answer was for a couple of beers.  My walk back to the guesthouse was in torrential rain, and lets just say I wasn't happy that the owner had locked the place at 21:40 as I had to hammer on the door whilst getting drenched to wake her to let me in.

The next morning wandering through the town I saw that the bamboo bridge had been partly washed away by the rain the previous night.  I had considered staying over the other side of the river so it was I good job I never.

You could walk across this bridge when I arrived in Luang Prabang

I took a tour to see Kuang Si Falls, which was great but was spoilt somewhat by having to share the minivan with 8 or 9 lads and lasses from the UK.  Up until this point I hadn't heard any swearing, but this short trip was littered with language that made it embarrassing to be from the same country.  Goodness only knows what the young Korean couple and a Dutch father and daughter combo must have thought.  The episode didn't make me want to come home in a hurry.

Waterfalls selfie

The waterfalls themselves were great and with the additional water that had fallen were in full flow.  I climbed the slippery 200m climb to the top where I didn't feel it was entirely safe, I was certainly not looking forward to the decent.  Talking with some other travellers they said it was easier to climb down the other side of the falls.  However this meant crossing the river at the top with just a flimsy bamboo fence to stop you from been washed over the edge.  Although it wasn't deep it was extreme enough for me.

Crossing the river at the top of the falls


The fence top left is the same fence as the photo above
The following day I took a trip out to an elephant camp.  I was just let loose wandering around the jungle watching them eat breakfast.  The only warning I had was stay away from the ones with tusks. Again not entirely safe most of them were wandering loose but I could get up really close.

Elephant selfie


My favourite elephant, a happy 'little' fella

My visit to Luang Prabang coincided with the film festival and also a celebration of 20 years of been a UNESCO town.  Plenty going on day and night.  I took in a fashion show and a concert by local singer Totlina.

Local fashion show

Totlina in action
I couldn't decide how to get to Thailand for my next stop.  Most tourists take the slow boat, but going up river it takes 3 days a 9 hour day, an 11 hour day and then a bus the next day.  It is supposed to be a beautiful trip but it took a little to long for my liking.  I decided on a night bus to the border, Huay Xai.  It is a 14 hour over night trip in a normal sitting bus.  I'm just about to get on the bus and must say I'm not entirely looking forward to it.  I will decide in the morning if I'm to stay in Huay Xai for a night although I'm down to my last 220,000 kip (£18) from which I will need to get a full day and nights expenses and a tuk tuk to the Thai border.  Banks here add 40,000 (£3.30) to each transaction you make so even though my bank (Norwich and Peterborough) does not charge on international ATMs, I still get stung.

My next blog will have details of my overnight bus where I'm hoping the bus isn't full, plus my first few days in my last country on this trip, Thailand.

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