Up North in Thailand

My last blog ended as I was just about to board a 14 hour 'VIP ' bus overnight from Luang Prabang to the Laos-Thai border. It was due to arrive at 8am but getting to the bus station the luxury bus I had booked was actually a minivan.

 

The minivan hurtled over the road that in places was little better than a badly maintained farm track.  Every time I anywhere near got to sleep we hit a very bumpy stretch that ensured that no sleep was to be had.

 

During the journey the driver and the co-driver took a shine to a local young Laos woman so much so they were taking photo's of her sleeping as the journey went along.  One of them was particularly snide and creepy and after finishing his driving shift made an Italian guy sit in the front so he could snuggle up to her.

 

The van went a lot faster than the bus, so much so we got to the destination Huay Xai bus station at 04:20.  It was way too early to even consider getting accommodation.  The tuk-tuk drivers that met the bus were painful to negotiate with.  One in particular was frustrating at best and he caught me in a 'grumpy moment' following a lack of sleep. 

 

I decided enough was enough and I was going to make my way into Thailand to Chiang Rai.  The border didn't open until around 7:30 but I managed to flag down a bus and was in Chiang Rai by lunchtime.

 

Having been a day ahead of my rough schedule I had done no research, and my lonely planet book had limited information on the city.  I saw a sign for a couple of guesthouses hopped off the bus and was sorted.

 

Chiang Rai was great. In a zombie like state I wondered the city took a nap and headed to the night market for my evening meal.  A vast choice of stalls selling Thai food at cheap prices with a stage with traditional dance performances made for a nice inexpensive evening.  It was early to bed as I had so much sleep to catch up on.

Chiang Rai Food Market

Traditional dancing on stage

I decided to stay on in Chiang Rai for another night to allow me to take in a day trip which went to 7 or 8 places.  The trip was great it was £18.60 but was great value for money.  Only two of us were on the trip my travel partner for the day was an English lady from Oxfordshire.

 

We took in the White Temple which was a nice change as every other temple was beginning to look the same.  It had a modern art theme and was great, it was a shame the sun wasn't shining as it glistens in the sun.



White Temple



The rest of the morning we visited a Black House/village which was OK, a tea plantation which had great scenery and a monkey cave, which is where our vehicle broke down.



Tea Plantation



A few phone calls later and we were paired with a mother and daughter group from China who I'd briefly met the day before as they were in my guesthouse.

 

The daughter was great fun, and could speak good English and was hoping to finish her university studies in the UK.  The afternoon flew by with visits to Maisai on on the Myanmar border, an opium museum, the golden triangle (a point were Laos, Myanmar and Thai meet separated by the Mekong river) and an average temple.  A great day with nice people.



Golden Triangle (Laos top right, Myanmar left, Thailand bottom)



I headed back to the night market for dinner, instantly bumped into the Chinese girls that persuaded me to get a hot pot meal where you had to cook your dinner on a clay pot at your table.  Thankfully the girls helped me out and the food was delicious. 



Master chef



A couple of beers with the younger Chinese girl back at the hotel and I was done in.

 

Struggling to make an early start the next morning I headed for Chiang Mai.  I found some ridiculously cheap digs £4.50 and went for an explore.  Chiang Mai had a 'big city feel' about something I'd not experienced sine Ho Chi Minh City several weeks back.  I'm not sure if it was because I was tired or the district that my hotel was located I didn't really like it.

 

Deciding to move on and return to Chiang Mai later in the trip to give it a fair trial I headed up in the mountains to Pai.  A much smaller place but overrun with tourists.  I found a great bungalow/wooden hut to stay in with a hammock on the balcony which was very relaxing as I watched the river flow.

 

I took in a sunset tour to Pai Canyon.  A ridge ran along with a huge drop either side.  I walked along it noticing it was only about a foot wide with a shear drop, once I got over this section I turned back and saw exactly where I'd walked which is when my legs turned to jelly.  The only way back was to retrace my steps but this time was seriously shaking and was so glad when I made my final baby step onto safe ground.



Pai Canyon





Sunset over Pai Canyon



On the way back into town we noticed a girl by the side of the road who had come off her motorbike.  She had cut her head open and was covered in blood. I went with her to the hospital, which I was impressed how quickly she was treated.  Anyone reading this considering renting a scooter around this part of the world please wear a helmet, the sight of this young girl covered in blood was not pleasant.

 

Earlier that day I put nearly all my clothes into a very cheap laundrette.  Whilst on a decent session of beers walking back late at night was horrified to see my clothes were hung up on the roadside outside the laundrette with the place shut up for the night.  Luckily when I went to collect them the next day they were all still there, perhaps that says more for my fashion sense rather than the trustworthiness of the other tourists in Pai!

 

The next day i took in a day trip with a great group of people, a young English couple, two German lads, a french girl and Dutch girl and 'a couple' of Spanish lasses.  We took in a waterfall, I took a dip into some hot springs and also had a great lookout place 1450m up over the mountains.

 

The highlight of the trip was a trip to Lod cave.  It was massive with many natural structures that the guide imaginatly suggested looked like animals.  We took a trip through the cave on a bamboo boat which was skimming the water and with each rowing stroke everyone ended up with wet backsides.



Lod Cave





I think this was an 'elephant' inside the cave



From Pai buses only go to two places Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son, the latter been a recommendation from the lady from Oxfordshire, so MHS it was.

 

I found 'OK' accommodation for £2.80 a night for a double en-suite room although it didn't have hot water. MHS is small but nice and I saw the sights that afternoon. The evening I bumped into a Japanese girl that was on my bus earlier.  We had a few beers listening to possibly the worst band I'd ever heard.  It was worse than karaoke as it appeared the guitarist and bass were also beginners.  They murdered a few tourist classics.



Mae Hong Son lake





Artistic view of a statue



The Japanese girl was telling me about a week long meditation retreat she was going on in a few days.  Sounded really interesting and something I'd consider.  We swapped details so I'll find out how it was before deciding if it is for me. I might find the no speaking, reading or writing a challenge though.

 

My final day in MHS I took a full day trip with a guy from Holland whom I'd met at Pai Canyon.  Another great day taking in a waterfall, Chinese village, fish cave (not worth the £1.90 fee) a mud spa, bamboo bridge and a bamboo trek.  Some of the spiders I saw that day were huge, actually they were bigger than that I'd say they were absolutely massive!



Lake at the Chinese village



Giant spider



Waterfall





Bamboo bridge over rice fields





Mud spa selfie



My journey to Chaing Mai was eventful due to all the locals (I was the only non Thai) throwing up as we snaked around the 1,864 curves and hairpin bends in the mountains back to the city. A couple of the day trips I'd done had options to visit a local tribe where the women wear brass bands around their necks which stretches them.  I didn't fancy it as it had an element of human zoo about it. One of the passengers on the bus was a 'long neck' so I got that 'attraction' for free (obviously without the photos).

 

So now as I've just arrived back in Chiang Mai I only have little over a week left of my trip.  I've upscaled my guesthouse and have a pool (just over £10 a night B&B).  Still no or little sight of Christmas but I'm looking forward to my Christmas dinner at home, it will be my first Western food in 11 weeks.

Laos part 2

My next stop in Laos was at Vang Vieng.  VV is a small town surrounded by limestone mountains with the Mekong river running through it.  It is a beautiful and picturesque town. With the many activities for tourists and surrounded by mountains it reminded me of South East Asia's version of Queenstown, New Zealand.

Balloonists enjoy Vang Vieng from the air

I arrived to the news that the death of another tourist the previous week had caused all bars to be closed along the famous tubing route.  The mix of excessive drink (and often drugs) with an inflatable tire and the fast current of the Mekong river is always going to be dangerous. I was undecided if I was to do this activity, and was never going to drink to excess, I'm bad enough in water without any alcohol.

Making my way around the town I bumped into the girl from Hong Kong whom I'd had dinner with a couple of weeks back.  It is amazing how many people you continue to bump into on well trodden paths.  We had a great catch up over dinner and said over farewell, she was heading south and I was heading north.

With the full-on tubing experience no longer an option I pushed myself to try something new and took on a full tour trip with had caving, some tubing and new to me Kayaking.  Following my unsuccessful time snorkelling it was time for me to push my own boundaries in the water again.





The tubing was dragging yourself along a rope in a cave full of water.  It was great fun, quite easy and relaxing.  I was with a great group of 3 Danish girls, 2 Swedish fellas and a couple of Korean girls. The lads were a great laugh and more my age so we got on great.  The Korean girls didn't mix with us too well, although I think it was a language problem, the Danes were great fun.

After lunch the Kayaking began, I was the only novice, one of the Danish girls (Marie) choose to be my partner, something she probably now regrets.  We started well for the first few metres, before heading towards an overhanging tree.  Been at the back I was in charge of steering, but got confused as we headed for a tree I turned the wrong way and when Marie swayed away from the foliage we capsized.  Luckily we were quickly recued as we sped along the Mekong holding onto the boat.  Thanks to an excellent tour guide and us wearing life jackets the only downside from this was one lost flip flop (hers - not mine).  At least I got to test that the dry bags worked. 



The start of the kayak adventure - I think it was the tree in the centre of the shot we crashed into

I learned quickly and really enjoyed the 8km kayaking.  It was tough and I had to concentrate to avoid all the rocks, bridges, tubers and trees but we survived in one piece. I bought the girls a drink to apologise but Marie insists it was her fault which I went along with.

After today's exercise I had well and truly had earned a beer or two. I went to the lively bar in town tried a new beer (Namkhong), had three free whiskey and lemonade drinks, bumped into the Korean girls who again weren't up for much banter, had a night cap and slept like a log.



A nice change from Beer Lao



I was pleased I had pushed myself to try something new.  Once over I would have avoided kayaking for fear of the unknown, but hey I faced my fear, within 2 minutes we'd capsized and survived and then I could enjoy it. One thing this trip has taught me is to push my boundaries (within reason) and even if the worst does happen it might not be as bad as anticipated.  This is what is great about travelling it can remove anxiety from your life.

A great trip from Vang Vieng over the mountains to Luang Prabang and I managed to bag the front seat of the mini-van yet again.  Everyone else was complaining about the drivers speed and he hit too many potholes, but I could see how bad the road was and I thought he was an excellent driver.  The mini-van was 2 hours quicker than the bus, so they must have realised he would be quite fast.  Some people just like to moan.



Nice drive to Luang Prabang



Another sunset view this time from the mountain in Luang Probang a wonder down the night market and an early night as the rain started to fall.



Feeling on top of the world in Luang Prabang



Food at the night market



And drinks - I had number 12 with plenty of Laos whiskey

Having gone through wet season in South East Asia, it is ironic that the next day was wiped out by steady rain. I sorted out a couple of trips for following days, had a coffee, with the rain still falling the only answer was for a couple of beers.  My walk back to the guesthouse was in torrential rain, and lets just say I wasn't happy that the owner had locked the place at 21:40 as I had to hammer on the door whilst getting drenched to wake her to let me in.

The next morning wandering through the town I saw that the bamboo bridge had been partly washed away by the rain the previous night.  I had considered staying over the other side of the river so it was I good job I never.


You could walk across this bridge when I arrived in Luang Prabang

I took a tour to see Kuang Si Falls, which was great but was spoilt somewhat by having to share the minivan with 8 or 9 lads and lasses from the UK.  Up until this point I hadn't heard any swearing, but this short trip was littered with language that made it embarrassing to be from the same country.  Goodness only knows what the young Korean couple and a Dutch father and daughter combo must have thought.  The episode didn't make me want to come home in a hurry.


Waterfalls selfie

The waterfalls themselves were great and with the additional water that had fallen were in full flow.  I climbed the slippery 200m climb to the top where I didn't feel it was entirely safe, I was certainly not looking forward to the decent.  Talking with some other travellers they said it was easier to climb down the other side of the falls.  However this meant crossing the river at the top with just a flimsy bamboo fence to stop you from been washed over the edge.  Although it wasn't deep it was extreme enough for me.


Crossing the river at the top of the falls



The fence top left is the same fence as the photo above

The following day I took a trip out to an elephant camp.  I was just let loose wandering around the jungle watching them eat breakfast.  The only warning I had was stay away from the ones with tusks. Again not entirely safe most of them were wandering loose but I could get up really close.


Elephant selfie



My favourite elephant, a happy 'little' fella

My visit to Luang Prabang coincided with the film festival and also a celebration of 20 years of been a UNESCO town.  Plenty going on day and night.  I took in a fashion show and a concert by local singer Totlina.

Local fashion show

Totlina in action

I couldn't decide how to get to Thailand for my next stop.  Most tourists take the slow boat, but going up river it takes 3 days a 9 hour day, an 11 hour day and then a bus the next day.  It is supposed to be a beautiful trip but it took a little to long for my liking.  I decided on a night bus to the border, Huay Xai.  It is a 14 hour over night trip in a normal sitting bus.  I'm just about to get on the bus and must say I'm not entirely looking forward to it.  I will decide in the morning if I'm to stay in Huay Xai for a night although I'm down to my last 220,000 kip (£18) from which I will need to get a full day and nights expenses and a tuk tuk to the Thai border.  Banks here add 40,000 (£3.30) to each transaction you make so even though my bank (Norwich and Peterborough) does not charge on international ATMs, I still get stung.

My next blog will have details of my overnight bus where I'm hoping the bus isn't full, plus my first few days in my last country on this trip, Thailand.

Chilling out in Laos

After the minibus from Cambodia dropped us off we made our way to catch a rickety boat to the 4000 islands. I was staying on Don Det which is known as a chillout and party island.  I had accomodation booked, quickly checked in dropped my bag and headed for sunset side of the island to watch the sun go down whilst having my first ever beer lao.

Sunset on 4,000 Islands

First (of many) Beer Lao

The bar restaurant was a shack overhanging the Mekong River furnished with bed like booths, cushions and seats. I got talking to the owner, she was incredibly hungover from the night before.  It turned out by chance this place was the same place that I had been recommended for excellent Laos food.

After another glorious sunset where the clouds around the mountains lit up in pinks and oranges, i was well overdue a shower after a full day on the bus.  I went back to the shack for dinner asking the owner what was her best dish, didn't catch what said, but yes please. It was fab if not a little too spicy but was good to wash it down with more beer.



 Chicken Ka Pao (I think) - very spicy but great



Later a young couple who had travelled with me from Siem Reap joined me and a Belgium girl for a few beers. The couple were from Paris and the other girl Brussels.  We discussed at great length the current situation with both places following the recent attacks. As we discussed the owner got on one of the beds and slept her hangover away. We helped ourselves to beers from the fridge and woke her up to pay when we left, it is that sort of place.

The next day I hired a bike which must have been older than me and I cycled around Don Det and the neighboring island connected by a bridge.  I visited some great waterfalls, and then to a man-made beach in the middle of the river. Other tourists were swimming and frolicking in the river lagoon, I could only paddle as I hadn't brought any swimming shorts.  It was too far to go back and get them. Others were swimming in their shorts but i was worried about leaving my phone, money and credit card by the side.  Cycling was tricky and tiring, the bike not helping. During my ride a snake crossed my my path, he already had a small mouse in his mouth which I was thankful of.



Waterfalls in Mekong River



Beach for a cool dip in the Mekong river



That evening I enjoyed another great sunset and met a local guy and had a few cocktails.  It was a great night.  Don Det is a young travellers destination, very chilled with beautiful scenery.

The next day I caught a boat and bus to Pakse. It wasn't clear which boat to catch, and even less clear which connecting bus to catch.  I had no onward accomodation booked so I wasn't fussed of the destination, but hoped it was north.



Boat landing beach



I'd planned a big Friday night out in Pakse, but after a very spicy dinner (Chicken Lahp) and a long walk, abandoned it for a couple of reasons. I was feeling a little sick after dinner and also I didn't fancy the late night dark walk home, tuk tuks in Pakse are scarce particularly in the evening.

The next day I caught the night bus to Vientiane the Laos capitol.  I was a little worried as I'd been told that the VIP sleeper bus was a series of single beds (about 5ft x 3ft) to share with another passenger. Booking my seat earlier I choose one that had a empty seat (bed) next to me.

When i went to the bus station to catch the bus I discovered I was to have a partner sharing my bed. A bit of a lottery, but after a little sweat talking the office girl (who couldn't speak English), she changed my seat to a vacant double right at the front of the bus above the driver. As it turned out my original seat (bed) 38 was sharing with a lovely french girl I met earlier in the day.  She will never know it but I guess she was more pleased than I, that I managed to change my reservation.



My bed on the sleeper bus for the evening



I might have had plenty of room but I had a prime view of oncoming overtaking lorries flashing and honking their horns at us and first hand witness of crazy manoeuvres.  On top of that, the road was very bumpy, and with every pothole we hit I was thrust 6 inches into the air and landed with a thump back on the bed.  Needless to say my sleep was restless at best.

So I arrived in Vientiane with no accommodation at 06:30 on a Sunday morning.  Everywhere was shut for breakfast so I wandered the streets looking for decent digs in my price range. 20 mins later I found a cracking hotel for £8 a night and best of all the room was immediately available. A quick nap and I hit the streets of Vientiane.

This is a small place and I'd done most of the temples on day one and headed up to a Arc De Triumph like structure (Patuxai) with you could climb to the top for 25p. A few beers watching the sun set over the mekong, a quick bite to eat and I was done.  The sunset was made all thee more pleasant as I was joined by a couple of Lao girls who surprisingly were also on the beer.  I expected boyfriends to turn up and join them but it never happened.  I had great food and an early night.



Vientiane version of the Arc De Triumph





This guy handily pointing me to the nearest pub

Over dinner I met a guy from Switzerland and agreed to meet him for sightseeing the next day.  We caught a local bus to Buddha park for 12,000 kip (£1) return saving from the 70,0000 organised tour. Back in town we did the COPE museum which helps locals who still suffer from the USA bombing 40 years ago. Unexploded bombs still cause around 100 casulaties a year. 



This was the way in

Buddha Park Mega mix

I headed back to the Mekong river for another great sunset, tonight's bar had loads of groups of young Lao women drinking together and enjoying themselves.  I stayed for a few beers listening to the live band.  

Cracking sunset over the Mekong

The next morning i made a late decision to travel north to Vang Viang.  At the agency I booked the 10am bus at 08:50.  The lady said I would be picked up in a tuk tuk at 09:00.  I rushed back to my hotel, quick toilet stop, but was horrified that the flush didn't work in the shared bathroom.  Managing to sort it using the shower attachment on the side of the toilet, quickly packed my bag and back to the travel agency.  

The tuk tuk dropped me about 20 meters from my hotel door and I boarded the bus and waited for over an hour and a half for it to fill up before departing. I could have so much time for a shower and relax had I known. As I write this aboard the 4 hour bus in 35°C heat still in the clothes I wore last night, I must admit I feel a little sorry for the German geezer sat next to me.

Vang Viang was to be the latest venue of another not entirely successful water based activity, this time in a Kayak.