Unplanned trip to Vietnam

My rough schedule had Cambodia as my next stop after Singapore. Looking on the Internet whilst in Singapore I discovered 2 pieces of information.

 

1) UK citizens can now get a 15 day visa on arrival for free to Vietnam
2) Flights to Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam) were loads cheaper than flights to Phnom Penh (Cambodia).

 

The combination of the above meant travelling back to Vietnam getting a couple of nights cheap accommodation and a bus to Phnom Penh in Cambodia would actual save me money. So that was that, flight to Ho Chi Minh City booked.



Pho Bo and Saigon Beer - its been a long time

The visa on arrival did have a restriction that you must be able to produce evidence that you were going to leave Vietnam before your 15 day visa expired.  I've heard this so many times in countries all over the world and have never been asked to produce it.

 

My conversation with the Immigration Official (IO) went something like:

 

IO: Can I see your proof of departure?
PK: Erm you can see my return ticket back to the UK from Bangkok on 22nd Dec.
IO: No good, when are you leaving Vietnam?
PK: Erm, 3 days (I guessed)
IO: Where do you go next?
PK: Stuttering and spluttering trying to say Phnom Penh, abandoned it and said Cambodia
IO: Can I see your Cambodia visa?
PK: On arrival in Cambodia so I don't have
IO: How do you go to Cambodia?
PK: Bus
IO: Can I see you ticket?
PK: No I buy later
IO: "PROBLEM"

 

He got his phone out and phoned - who I presumed to be - his boss who didn't answer, so he shrugged his shoulders and stamped my passport and in I went.

 

I was in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) less than 2 years ago so I knew the ropes, where to get decent cheap accommodation and which bus to catch from the airport to that area.

 

In HCMC I did some tourism stuff that I have done before. I went to the War Remnants Museum which is a graphic photo exhibition of the Vietnam War.  Some of those photos you can't unsee and stay with you forever.  On exiting a torrential downpour broke out. I along with many locals and foreigners were under an awning seeking shelter.  It was slightly downhill  and soon a huge river developed.

Notre Dame HCMC Style

Tank and helicopter take a battering from a torrential downpour

 The rain lasted about an hour, once it eased i made a dash for a bar to seek more comfortable surroundings and as it turned out very cheap beer.

Rain stopped play so had a hat-trick of Saigon Red (the strong stuff)

Coming from the organised transport of Singapore, HCMC freaked me out a little at first, but I soon got to love the traffic chaos that you find in many Asian countries.

 

I particularly enjoy crossing the road in HCMC. Faced with literally hundreds of motorcycles coming at you from all directions, you merely step into the road and walk slowly and continuously. The motorbikes swerve around you like a river round a boulder.  If you stop or run you are in great danger of been hit.

 

I stayed in the Pham Ngu Lau district of town which is full of backpackers, cheap accommodation and bar central with more than a fair share of sleaze in the mix.  I got into a long conversation with a guy from Finland who had a younger Vietnamese wife, later that evening an American chap with a Vietnamese wife half his age, common theme around these parts. Maybe it was the wit and charm of this American Gentleman that attracted her to him, and had nothing to do with the fact he had bought land and built houses for her and her extended family (all in her name). Anyhow, they both seemed happy which at the end of the day should be the goal of everyone.

 

That night I had great local food at a fine café - Bun Cha, the food was local and outstanding and the service was great. Cheap as well. So good that I ate here again later in the week.

 

The plan was 2 days in HCMC then getting into Cambodia via the Mekong Delta. That plan was on track until I got an email from someone I met in Hoi An on my last visit. I see on facebook you are in Vietnam, come to Hoi An I work in a new 4* hotel, special introductory offer 15$US a night (under a tenner) including buffet breakfast and pool.  She told me which airline to book cheap flights with and the next day I jetted off to the centre of Vietnam for £45.54 return.



Dude in the Chinese Temple

The airport for Hoi An is 20km or so from town and is located in a new city Da Nang.  I had been through it before but never stayed so I had my first night here. I was attracted by the dragon bridge. Not too much in the way of other attractions in Da Nang but I went to a great temple (I was the only tourist there) and then to inspect the bridge.
 

As you can see from the photo below it has a dragon running through the bridge and on a weekend it fires flames and water from its mouth.  The sky turned moodily dark and looked as if it was going to hammer it down and sure enough when i was in the middle of the bridge, down it poured. I ran to a bar at the other side to seek refuge from the deluge (and drink beer).

 

I went out to a tourist area, didn't like it, the restaurants served pizza or burger, the bars served Heineken or Guinness and the clientele was exclusively Western.  I survived 1 overpriced drink (73p) before heading to a local area where cheap local food was served, Larue beer was selling for 30p a bottle and it was full of locals enjoying a Friday night out. Nice to see so many Vietnamese women as well.

The arse end of the Dragon bridge with pending rain clouds

Dragon bridge post rain

Getting from Da Nang to Hoi An i was told not to use the public bus as it is dangerous and I will be overcharged.  Reading similar reviews on trip adviser confirmed the overcharging but I felt it was safe enough.  Sure enough the ticket collector tried to charge me 100,000 (£3) when the journey should only be 18,000 (55p) plus a bit more for my bag.  I stood my ground said no, and he got a bit mad. I told him he was ripping me off. He tried to grab my bag and chuck it off, after failing he sat in his seat moaning and chuntering to himself.  The bus had 2 inspectors, the other one was sound. I just handed the decent one a 50,000 he said thank you and gestured that I should beat up the other bloke.  Yes i was ripped off but still claimed a tiny moral victory.

 

So to Hoi An and this new hotel for under a tenner was exquisite.  The gardens aren't finished but everything else was done.  I thought my great mate Podge would have been proud of me for getting the best and paying the least.

Japanese Bridge in the beautiful town of Hoi An

The girls at reception, Travel desk and Waitresses were all great. Enjoyed every minute of it here. Sometimes I would stop by at reception or the travel desk for an hour or so just chatting and having a laugh.

Booking a day trip was fun at the travel desk

I took a day trip to My Son a Cham settlement that was heavily bombed by the Americans during the war. It was an organised tour and i always fund that there is at least one dick on each tour. This one was American. Our guide explained that the French had taken the heads from all remaining statues for research, to which he yelled "Ah the bloody French spoiling this place" he pipped down a bit when i pointed out that his country and bombed the shit out of the place and that is why only ruins remain.  Him aside it was a good trip and we took a boat back to the town.

My Son

This is the life

I had a walk into the old town where since I was last here less than 2 years ago has got a bit more tourist savvy. They tried to fleece me for a ticket to enter the old town which was actually a ticket for all the temples which i did for free last visit. I didn't pay and kept walking. 

 

15p's worth

Hoi An is a beautiful riverside town so much more relaxing than the busy cities of HCMC and Hanoi.  It is a great place and probably in my top 10 all time favourite locations. Last time i got a new suit fitted, 7 work shirts and a pair of shoes made, all top quality but this time i didn't buy anything as I'd have it to carry for a few months.  On my way back to the hotel I found a bar serving beers for 5000 dong or (15p) to you and I. It was good stuff as well so stayed for quite a while.
 

My other day in Hoi An i spent with the girl I know from my last visit. We went out on her motorbike and got away from all tourists. She took me to her home and cooked lunch. Again it is pleasant speaking with someone you already know, discussing current and future plans.

 

I managed to get the public bus back to Da Nang for 30,000 (result) and spent 2 more nights in HCM, visiting off the beaten track sights, having a few beers and each evening enjoying a great meal.



View from the roof top restaurant

I booked a 2 day Mekong delta trip to Cambodia. There were only 5 of us on the trip, 2 girls from Essex and a German couple. Everyone got on really well.  The floating market was a massive let down, a candy factory was OK, the crocodile farm was interesting.  The overnight stay in Chau Doc was OK but not too much going on.

Floating Market (or supposed to be) Trip

Crocodile Farm

Anyone for snake wine?

The next day was to travel along the Mekong River and into Cambodia, where i was hoping for a smoother immigration experience.